NYC Day 17: The Rubin Museum of Art

The start of the spiral staircase that rises through the Rubin Museum

SENIORS FREE FIRST MONDAY'S @ THE RUBIN MUSEUM, 150, West 17th Street.
I caught a 1-train the 19th street station which was less than a couple hundred yards from the Rubin museum. The museum provides free entry to seniors (normally USD$10.00) on the first Monday of each month, and I was more than happy to take advantage of the offer. I have been to the Rubin Museum on previous visits to New York and enjoyed my visit enough to make a return trip today. The two new major exhibitions this summer are The World Is Sound, which is part exhibition, part sound installation. The second exhibition, Henri Cartier-Bresson: India in Full Frame, features sixty-nine photographs taken by this much acclaimed photographer during several trips to India from the late 1940s through until the early 1960s.

The Tibetan Buddhist Shrine Room

Acoustic insulation in the Deep Listening room

The World Is Sound
This exhibition/installation juxtaposes sound art and Tibetan Buddhist ritual music cyclically, that is, from creation to death to rebirth. The work explores different dimensions of sound and listening and its many functions in Tibetan Buddhism. Some of the key concepts and terms explored through the exhibition encourage visitors to focus on ambient sounds, microtones, electronic music, drones (the musical type, not the modern flying craft), rhythm and polyrhythm, tone and timbre, and more besides.

I was particularly interested to learn about the late Pauline Oliveros's concept which she called, Deep Listening. The brochure for this part of the exhibition contains four exercises that visitors can employ to help them focus deeply on tuning in to the sounds around them. One of these exercises she called, Ear Piece, and asks thirteen questions that encourage Deep Listening. Here are the first five and final two:

1. Are you listening now?
2. Are you listening to what you are now hearing?
3. Are you hearing while you listen?
4. Are you listening while you are hearing?
5. Do you remember the last sound you heard before this question?

And so on, until the final two questions: Are you listening to sounds now or just hearing them? And... What sound is most meaningful to you?

Even working through the first five questions is harder than I thought it would be. After all, we live in a world where it is virtually impossible not to be surrounded by sounds that are loud, intrusive and constant. Especially here in New York City!

Henri Cartier-Bresson: India In Full Frame
In 1947 Cartier-Bresson (1908-2004), co-founded the renowned Magnum photographic agency. Later that year he went to India for the first time and was in Delhi in January 1948 to meet with and photograph Mahatma Gandhi, who despite his diminutive physical size was one of the towering political figures of the 20th century. While Cartier-Bresson was not present when Gandhi was assassinated by a Hindu nationalist on January 30, 1948, he was certainly present to document the subsequent funeral and the massive crowds of mourners who gathered to witness Gandhi's traditional cremation ceremony.

Above and below; images from the Cartier-Bresson exhibition

Above: Mahatma Gandhi's funeral pyre 

These images, and many others cemented Cartier-Bresson's reputation as one of the great photographers of the last century, and a selection of images from that period form an important part of the current exhibition at the Rubin Museum.

Many of the other photographs from the late 1940s capture a country that was right on the cusp of major political change, as India struggled to get out from under British colonial rule, a campaign that Gandhi was heavily involved in. For students of history, and of British colonial history and how that impacted on the Indian subcontinent, these images will surely be of interest. However, I suspect that other visitors will mostly regard them as historical curiosities - though hopefully interesting ones.

But Wait - There's More!
Apart from these two major exhibitions, the Rubin Museum also has a permanent collection of fascinating drawings, paintings, statuary and more from Tibet and other nearby regions that make this museum worthy of a visit. Like similar institutions, the Rubin programs a full calendar of ancillary events ranging from free (and fee paying) musical performances across a range of genres, film screenings, classes, lectures, events for children and families, and an annual Block Party that also includes free entry to the museum. This year the Block Party (which takes place on West 17th street between 6th and 7th avenues), will be on Sunday, July 16, from 1:00pm to 4:00pm.

If You Go
Rubin Museum of Art...
150, West 17th Street, New York, New York.

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Monday, July 3 | Expenses $15.00

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NYC Day 16: Cassandra Wilson at The Blue Note Jazz Club

The very delightful and talented Cassandra Wilson

CASSANDRA WILSON AT BLUE NOTE JAZZ CLUB. 131, West 3rd Street, New York.
I have long wanted to see the Jazz chanteuse Cassandra Wilson in live performance, and on this date I finally did.

In a show that lasted barely one hour, Wilson and her five piece band presented a virtuoso performance that barely scratched the surface of her vast recording career. I have no complaints about the choice of songs (after all, I am almost completely ignorant about her musical career, other than to say that I have been aware of her as a much acclaimed artist for many years). And I certainly have no issues with the incredibly talented ensemble playing for her, especially the brilliant violinist whose surname I did not catch but whose first name was Charlie. But I would dearly have liked to have experienced a longer show from Ms Wilson.

Members of Ms Wilson's ensemble warm up onstage.

Photography during the show was strictly forbidden.

This was my first visit to this famed institution. The Blue Note Jazz Club. It has been located on West 3rd Street since it first opened in 1981. Wikipedia provides more information:

Blue Note Jazz Club is a jazz club and restaurant located at 131 West 3rd Street in Greenwich Village, New York City. The club was opened on September 30, 1981, by owner and founder Danny Bensusan, with the Nat Adderley Quintet being the featured performers for the night. The club’s performance schedule features shows every evening at 8:00 pm and 10:30 pm and a Sunday jazz brunch with performances at 12:30 pm and 2:30 pm. 

History
Bensusan's belief was "that if he brought big acts into a comfortable environment with great food, he could pack the house night after night." The Blue Note was soon established as the city's premier jazz club, with Dizzy Gillespie, Sarah Vaughan, Carmen McRae, Canadian-born drummer David Mendel, Dan Frieber, Lionel Hampton, Oscar Peterson and The Modern Jazz Quartet among prestigious regular performers there. Bensusan booked Ray Charles for a full week every year. It is still considered one of the world’s most famous jazz venues and one of the best known and most expensive in New York.

Well, it certainly wasn't cheap. To date, this event has been the most expensive during my current visit with a total upfront cost coming in at $126.60 (approx AUD$165.60). This includes the $55 ticket, meal+two beers, tip, and state taxes. I say 'up front cost' deliberately because my bank's foreign transaction fees still need to be added to this amount. Still, I can live with all that. I'm just saying, an extra 20 to 30 minutes from Cassandra Wilson would have made for a more perfect night. But thank you, Ms Wilson, it was a real pleasure -- while it lasted.

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Sunday, July 2 | Expenses; $144.86 (AUD$189.35)

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NYC Day 15: The Cloisters and a rained out Midtown evening

Click on images to view at full size.

MET CLOISTERS TALK: Medieval Frescoes with Sigrid Goldiner
I went to the Cloisters in plenty of time to start this tour with an elderly and very anorexic looking Sigrid Goldiner. Maybe I'm being too harsh on Sigrid, but by god she was thin to the point of being invisible! I listened to the first 15 minutes of her talk with great interest, and then wandered off on my own for the next couple of hours.

I toyed with the idea of heading home for the evening, but on a whim I decided to take the M4 bus all the way to 42nd Street, and waste some time there before getting something to eat. As it happens, the heavy rain showers that had been threatening all day, decided to let loose just after I had entered a Pret A Manger for something to eat, and I sat out the deluge inside away from the rain. However, the rest of the evening did not look like it was going to escape without the occasional downpour, so I walked back to Madison Avenue and caught another M4 bus back to The Heights. 

A poisonous Mandrake plant in the Cloisters Medieval garden

And that, dear reader, is a summary of my second week highlights in New York City. Here, as near as I can calculate are my daily expenses for this past week.

Week Two Expenses (Figures in brackets are Australian dollar amounts)
Museum Memberships $19.15 ($25.15)        | Ongoing
MTA Pass $28.00 ($36.80)                            | weekly expenses
Accommodation $152.00 (200.00)                | $199.15 ($261.95)
Sunday 25, June | Expenses $49.00 ($64.55)
Monday 26, June | Expenses $77.00 ($101.20)
Tuesday 27, June | Expenses $72.50 ($95.30)
Wednesday 28, June | Expenses $38.37 ($50.10)
Thursday 29, June | Expenses $0.0 ($0.0)
Friday 30, June | Expenses $103.95 ($135.20)
Saturday 1, July | Expenses $29.50 ($38.35)
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TOTAL: USD$569.47 | AUD$746.65

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General view of the Cloisters from the Medieval Garden

NYC Days 13 & 14: The Met Egyptian Wing, and Playing For Change

Click on images to view full sized

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Thursday 29, June | Expenses $0.0
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Today was a rest day. I didn't even leave the apartment but instead stayed in resting and reading. Some days you just have to stop and recharge.

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Friday 30, June | Expenses $103.95 ($135.20)
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MET MUSEUM MEMBER FRIDAYS
I hit the Met Museum again and joined a one hour tour of the Egyptian Wing which was very informative. Many of the treasures in this section obviously go back thousands of years before the modern Christian calendar begins with the 'birth' of Jesus. What amazes over and over again is the use of what then must have been modern technology to build the huge pyramids and mausoleums beneath them. 

One also needs to acknowledge the development of the tools and expertise used to embalm and entomb the pharaohs and general citizenry of Egypt. And let's not forget the production of bright colours that were also developed thousands of years ago, and which today are almost as bright and as fresh as they were when first applied to the casks and coffins in which the dead were buried.

This and the images below: Cover and internal decorations of Egyptian burial casket.

It is hard to believe that these artifacts are thousands of years old given the quality of 

material and the vibrant colors that are still visible. 

Playing For Change Band
Highline Ballroom, 431, W 16th Street
 From the Met I slowly made my way to the Highline Ballroom where I joined the line for the days main event, a performance by the Playing For Change Band. If you are not familiar with Playing For Change (PFC), a brief recap is in order: Playing for Change is described as a multimedia music project that seeks to inspire, connect, and bring peace to the world through music.

In 2005, Mark Johnson was walking in Santa Monica, California, when he heard the voice of Roger Ridley (now deceased) singing "Stand By Me." Roger had so much soul and conviction in his voice, and Mark approached him about performing "Stand By Me" as a Song Around The World. Roger agreed, and when Mark returned with recording equipment and cameras he asked Roger, "With a voice like yours, why are you singing on the streets?" Roger replied, "Man I’m in the Joy business, I come out to be with the people." Ever since that day, the Playing For Change crew has traveled the world recording and filming musicians, creating Songs Around The World, and building a global family. [ Source: Wikipedia]

From such humble beginnings has the Playing For Change Band grown. On this night it consisted of 12 musicians and singers, including the very popular Grandpa Elliott, who appeared in the first video for the song, Stand By Me, and who had not performed with the band for the past year or two. 

It's also worth noting that PFC also created a separate non-profit organization called the Playing For Change Foundation, which builds music schools for children around the world. Truly it is said: From little things big things grow. As anticipated, it was a great night of music delivered by musicians from as far afield as South Africa, Israel, Japan, North and South America and elsewhere. The mood was upbeat and joyous throughout, and the show capped of a busy week of gigs for me that made my second week in New York hard to beat.

NYC Day 12: Staten Isand Mystery Tour

Above and Below: Images from the refurbished South Ferry subway station.

Five years and millions of dollars later, the station has finally opened after

the damage caused by Superstorm Sandy has been fixed.

MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR TO STATEN ISLAND
I rode the 1-train to South Ferry and boarded a Staten Island Ferry to St. George, where I boarded an S44 bus and rode as far as the Staten Island Mall. I have been to the mall during a previous trip to New York, and was happy to alight there for a meal and reacquaint myself with the complex. The mall is much the same as it was when I last saw it, but the owners are in the middle of an expansion project which will add more stores and parking to the site. I also noted that the mall now has an Apple Store that was very well patronized.

Like most visitors to the city, I have taken advantage of the free ferry ride between Manhattan and Staten Island. In my case, I have made numerous such trips over the years, and yes, I have even left the confines of the St. George terminal building to explore farther parts of the island. I have taken a bus as far as Tottenville at the far end of the island, visited the Sailors Snug Harbor complex and more. What I have enjoyed most about this little explorations is discovering just how suburban parts of Staten Island are. Many of the homes stand on their own blocks, separated from their neighbors with lush lawns, trees and shrubs in well-kept flower beds, and clean yards. These come as a pleasant surprise when contrasted to the crowded noisy streets of Manhattan and the other major boroughs.

Above and Below: Images of the Staten Island Mall.

On returning to Manhattan, I walked to the South Street Seaport area fully expecting to enjoy a meal and the views of the Brooklyn Bridge from the new shopping complex that has replaced my former favorite resting spot at that location. To my surprise the building process has yet to be completed, and from what I could see, I don't expect it will be ready for most of the rest of this year.

There was nothing for it therefore but to go to my alternative eating house, Squire's Diner, where I ordered a chicken quesadilla and house fries. The house fries, while very nice, were more than I could eat since the quesadilla with its salad, sour cream and guacamole on the side was more than enough for me. I left feeling completely bloated, and after buying a couple of cans of condensed milk at a local supermarket I headed for the A-train and home.

The lower Manhattan skyline from the deck of a Staten Island Ferry.

The magnificent clipper ship, Wavertree at the South Street Seaport. 

A panoramic view of heritage buildings at the South Street Seaport. 

"Why the condensed milk?" I hear you ask (and I'm glad you did). Because there is something definitely not right with the milk that my local store, Frank's Gourmet Market sells. After buying a litre of milk there on a Friday, I found that it had started to curdle by the following Monday. I day later when I decided to pour the rest down the sink, it had practically solidified! That's when I decided to give up on buying fresh milk and try condensed milk in cans and see how I go with those. I will end up paying more for less milk, but then if I am going to throw half a litre of milk away every time I buy the stuff, the cost might be cheaper in the long run anyway.

As for the milk at the supermarket, my guess is that there is nothing wrong with the milk as such when they get it from the manufacturer, but that the fault probably lies with the way the milk is stored before I hits the shelves at Frank's. I'm tempted to let the manufacturer know, but I have better things to do.

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Wednesday 28, June | Expenses $38.37 ($50.10)

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NYC Day 11: Happy 30th Jesse Paris Smith!

Far left: Jesse Smith at piano. Far right: Jackson Smith, Lenny K, Michael Stipe,
Patti Smith with back to audience, and other musicians on stage at birthday bash.

JESSE PARIS SMITH: 30th Birthday Celebration
Jesse Paris Smith celebrated her 30th birthday with a host of fellow musicians and family members. During the evening we were treated to performances Rebecca Foon, Timothy Monger and Gregory Mcintosh (of Great Lakes Myth Society), Alana Amram, Jesse's brother Jackson, and of course her mother, Patti Smith. All proceeds from the night went to Pathways to Paris, an organization she co-founded with Rebecca Foon.

JESSE PARIS SMITH is a composer, instrumentalist, activist, and producer. She has performed globally in many configurations, collaborating with other musicians and artists, including Soundwalk Collective, Tenzin Choegyal, Shyam Nepali, Raju Lama, and her mother Patti and brother Jackson. Her music compositions have been commissioned for short films, commercial work, art installations, fashion shows, audiobooks, and live film score performances. Many of her projects and collaborations  with others focus on the topics of global climate change and the Himalayan region. She is on the Associate Board at Tibet House US, where she has co-curated and hosted events, and has been a regular performer of their annual benefit concert at Carnegie Hall since 2008.

 In September 2014, Jesse and Montreal based cellist, Rebecca Foon, launched Pathway to Paris, a fundraising initiative and multi media event series focused on bringing awareness to climate change and the urgent importance of establishing a legally binding global climate agreement. All of the events also served as fundraisers for 350, a leading climate action organization founded by Bill Mckibben.

In light of the Himalayan earthquake in April 2015, she also founded Everest Awakening, an initiative to bring together musicians, artists, writers, poets, and activists to raise funds and awareness for the Himalaya. Jesse was born in Detroit, and spent her childhood in St. Clair Shores, Michigan. She lives between Detroit and NYC. [Source: City Winery gig listing].

In keeping with the birthday party theme, this show was a mix of organized chaos, rollicking music, numerous exclamations of "Happy Birthday, Jesse," an auction that raised an extra $2000 for the cause, a surprise appearance by Michael Stipe of REM fame, and the presence of Lenny K, Patti Smith's longtime collaborator. There was of course a birthday cake, two rounds of Happy Birthday, and much more besides. 

The night really came alive whenever Patti Smith took to the stage, especially when she closed the night with a rousing rendition of People Have The Power. The stage was packed with all the musicians who had performed during the night, and they and the capacity audience joined with Patti to roar out the chorus in a clear statement to Republicans and Democrats alike, that 'we the people' would not give up our power without a fight.

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Tuesday 27, June | Expenses $72.50 ($95.30)

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