Thursday, August 3, 2017

NYC Day 48: In Which I Stand in Awe at The Feet of The Great Villalpando

Moses and the Brazen Serpent and the Transfiguration of Jesus
Click on images to view full sized.
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The plan today, was to return again to the Met Museum for a few hours, and then make my way across Central Park to the Lincoln Center in plenty of time to catch Angelique Kidjo performing the Talking Heads classic album, Remain in Light, along with a set from the British ensemble Ibibio Sound Machine, both at Damrosch Park. I made it to the museum okay, and as usual headed straight for the cafeteria on the lower ground floor. From there I was just steps away from a wonderful new exhibition, Cristóbal de Villalpando: Mexican Painter of the Baroque.
Cristóbal de Villalpando (ca. 1649–1714) emerged in the 1680s not only as the leading painter in Mexico, but also as one of the most innovative and accomplished artists in the entire Spanish world. This exhibition features his earliest masterpiece, a monumental painting showing two scenes—Moses and the brazen serpent, and the Transfiguration of Jesus—in an unprecedented juxtaposition of these Old and New Testament subjects. Painted in 1683 for a chapel in Puebla Cathedral and newly conserved, the 28-foot-tall painting has never before been exhibited outside its place of origin in Puebla, Mexico. Ten additional works are shown that demonstrate Villalpando's engagement with concepts of invention and professional identity, his ability to convey complex subject matter, and his capacity to envision the divine. Highlights include his recently discovered Adoration of the Magi, on loan from Fordham University, and The Holy Name of Mary, from the Museum of the Basilica of Guadalupe in Mexico City. [Source; Met Museum website]
Let me just say that Moses and the Brazen Serpent and the Transfiguration of Jesus, is a masterpiece in every sense of that word. The images included in this post do the work a complete injustice. Look at the images, and then imagine them projected as high as a two or three storey building. You will then get a sense of just how huge this work is.

Information panel at the VillalpandoThe exhibition.

Above: Detail from Moses and the Brazen Serpent...
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In this bold and erudite composition, Cristóbal de Villalpando pairs the Old Testament story of the brazen serpent with Gospel accounts of the Transfiguration of Jesus, staging both scenes in a continuous landscape. The lower half depict the punishment of the Israelites, tormented by a plague of deadly serpents for speaking against God and Moses.. [..] The upper half of the painting depicts the Transfiguration of Jesus, witnessed by three startled apostles atop the holy Mount Tabor. [Source: Information provided with the painting].
Whether you are believer or non-believer, you must surely stand in awe, as I did, at the sheer scale and boldness of Villalpando's vision, and his ability as an artist working in the late 1600's to conceive of and then complete this work. When Villalpando finished the painting in 1683, the two sections together stood approximately 28 feet 4 in. high, with a width of 18 feet (865 × 550.1 cm)

In the image below, the thin band of pale light located in the middle and to the right of the painting shows a passageway in the Met Museum where visitors can just be seen examining some other works of art. This will give you some idea of just how high Villalpando's magnificent work looms over the visitors below. I am quite sure I will return to the museum to see this masterpiece again and again before I return to Australia in September.

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IF YOU GO
Cristóbal de Villalpando: Mexican Painter of the Baroque
Now through October 15, 2017
At the Metropolitan Museum
Fifth Avenue, New York City.


Above: The Immaculae Conception 
Below: Detail from The Immaculate Conception 


Information panel for The Immaculate Conception 
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As for Angelique Kidjo, the overcast sky, which had been sending out ominous warnings all day in the form of rolling thunder and shards of lighting, was releasing a light fall of rain as I, and hundreds of other visitors left the Met Museum at five o'clock. And the inclement weather only threatened to worsen as the night progressed. To be honest, as much as I thought I wanted to see Angelique Kidjo, my heart wasn't in it, and the light rain provided the excuse I needed to catch an M4 bus back to Washington Heights. Needless to say, before I was half way 'home', the clouds began to break apart, and patches of blue sky began to poke through here and there, as if to mock me. But it was all to no avail. I alighted at my bus stop and treated myself to a couple Corona's and dinner at Refried Beans, my local Mexican restaurant, and called it a day.

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Wednesday 2, August | Expenses $39.70 ($50.15)
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Any questions, comments or suggestions? How about complaints or compliments? Let me know via the comments box below.

NYCDays 46 & 47: In Which Captain Swing Embarks on a Mystery Tour

Law and Order: SVU comes to Washington Heights
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Day 46: Monday 31, July | Expenses $101.40 ($127.10)

HOLLYWOOD COMES TO WASHINGTON HEIGHTS - AGAIN
I turned into 187th street, and to my surprise I saw that Hollywood has still not left Washington Heights (see previous posts). Wow, thinks I, given that they started filming scenes at an apartment on 187th for Asher a week ago, that is turning into one hell of a long film shoot. Imagine my even greater surprise to learn that this was not the same film crew who were filming scenes for Asher, but a different film crew filming scenes for Law & Order: SVU, (Special Victims Unit). Seriously? Since when did Washington Heights become such a 'go to' location for filming? As interesting as it is to see this type of activity in the neighborhood, I'm somewhat annoyed because I stopped watching these types of shows years ago, so it is highly unlikely that I will ever get to see how 'my neighborhood' is depicted on screen.

The empty stage at City Winery awaits Captain Swing
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MICHELLE SHOCKED: CAPTAIN SWING
Michelle Shocked returned to the City Winery (155, Varick Street, New York City) for the second of her summer residency performances, this time to play in full her second album, Captain Swing. I had assumed that Michelle would be backed by the same trio of musicians she had with her in June when she preformed Short Sharp Shocked, but no, this time the four musicians, most of whom seemed to be long-time collaborators, were all well versed in the art of playing Western Swing, and the songs from the album were brought fully alive with the aid of a brilliant trumpet player (whose name I missed, as I did the names of the three other musicians. Sorry fellas).

Once again, Michelle Shocked rocked the night, and I still don't understand how she and her band were able to turn a 35 minute album into a concert that lasted almost 90-minutes. She did throw in a few extra songs, but still, it was a remarkable achievement. I can't wait to attend her third show later this month, at which she will perform the third album in her 'trilogy', Arkansas Traveler.

Above and Below: Historical information about New Haven.
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Day 47: Tuesday 1, August | Expenses $50.50 ($63.50)

MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR TO NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT
I embarked on my first real mystery tour of this trip, when I boarded a Metro-North Railroad train to New Haven, Connecticut, having picked up the train at the 125th/Park Street station for the 1:40:00 minute trip. The thing is though, that it wasn't until I took a close look at the route that I realized I would be leaving New York State and heading into the state of Connecticut. Or maybe I did know this, but had forgotten. Either way, there I was on a train speeding towards New Haven, and it occurred to me to take a Google Maps look at the city and see if there was anything of importance I should see or do while I was there. Imagine my second surprise for the day to find that not only is New Haven in Connecticut, but it is also the home of the world renowned Yale University.

In due course, the train arrived as scheduled, and I promptly hopped onto a shuttle bus for the free ride into the city centre. While on the bus it occurred to me to remain on it and get a free tour of the town as I completed its route. This I did, but was ultimately disappointed with a circuit that lasted barely 15-20 minutes. On my second go round I left the bus at New Haven's central square and wandered off to explore the area.

Click panorama to view full sized.  
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The first thing I noticed is that the town square -- like all city squares -- is a magnet for the indigent, the unemployed and unemployable, the drifters and druggies, and for the families and their numerous children (who immediately gravitate towards the central fountain where they splash in and out of the water jets with loud screams of pleasure and excitement), and for workers on their lunch breaks, and for many other people like myself, who seem to have nothing better to do with their day.

The other universal thing about central town squares is the uniformity of the major buildings that stand around their edges. You will almost always find a Town Hall (or City Hall, as they are called in America), a courthouse, post office, one or more churches, large financial institutions such as banks or a major financial centre, a hotel or two, and other prominent buildings. All of the above were to be seen around, or close to the New Haven Green, to give the square its official title.

The beautiful City Hall building.

The United Church on The Green, at New Haven Green.

The very imposing U.S. Post Office and Court House Building.
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As it happens, it wasn't hard to find Yale University since Yale's Old Campus borders one edge of the Green, and once in amongst this venerable institution's buildings, it was simply a case of following my eyes around the massive campus, checking out the most interesting buildings architecturally. And you can be sure there were plenty of those. Many of the oldest buildings would have made perfect settings for the Harry Potter stories, and lovers of Gothic architecture would have been in their element admiring the many beautiful examples of that classic style.

There were large groups of students, presumably Freshmen (and women), who appeared to be going through some type of orientation program to familiarize themselves with the university and its sprawling campus. There were also other large group tours taking place at the same time which included family groups with younger students who were presumably checking out the campus as a potential future learning center.



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My brief research effort on board the train revealed several museums that might have been worth checking out, but I simply did not have enough time to even find one or two of them, let alone pay them a visit. However, during my campus wanderings I did see and enter the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library, the interior of which looked like no other library that I have ever seen.

On display in the library is a complete copy of the Gutenberg Bible, one of only 200 or so that were printed around the year 1455 by Johann Gutenberg in Mainz, Germany. Of these 200, only 21 complete copies are known to still exist, although according to information provided by the library, some 26 incomplete copies and numerous fragments have also survived.

Above and Below: Exterior and interior views of the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library at Yale University.


Above: One of only 21 known complete copies of the Gutenberg Bible. 
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The End Of The Line Game
My little out of town jaunt was the result of a travel game I play far too infrequently, namely, the End Of The Line game. The rules of the game are quite straight forward; pick a form of easily accessible public transport such as bus, train or ferry; choose any available route as randomly as possible, and then ride that bus, train or ferry to the end of the line -- which should be a place you have never been. Once you are at your destination, you must spend several hours at least, exploring the surrounding neighborhood, village or town you have arrived at, before returning to the place from which you departed.

Oh, and one more thing - if you are a truly adventurous traveler, you should not conduct any research into the station at the end of the line, or its surroundings before choosing it as you final destination. However, once you have decided on that final destination, it would be wise to at least find out when the last bus, train or ferry is returning to your point of departure!

I am planning on at least one other round of the End Of The Line Game, but more on that in due course.

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Monday 31, July | Expenses $101.40 ($127.10)
Tuesday 1, August | Expenses $50.50 ($63.50)
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Any questions, comments or suggestions? How about complaints or compliments? Let me know via the comments box below.

Monday, July 31, 2017

NYC Days 44 & 45: In Which I Luxuriate in The Lincoln Center Out Of Doors

The main Lincoln Center Out Of Doors stage 
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Any questions?

No? Then let's get started.

If it's summer (and it is), it must be time for the annual Lincoln Center Out Of Doors festival, that wonderful three week program of free dance, film, spoken word, and music - lots of music. Last summer I attended numerous performances during the festival, and I was absolutely blown away by the quality of the gigs and the performers who featured in them. So it was with much anticipation that I looked at the program for this year's event.

The festival began last Wednesday with a concert hosted by NPR (National Public Radio) Music. Called Turning The Tables Live, the evening was "...a celebration of the pioneering women of the "classic album era" (approx. 1964-present). Some of today's brightest performers open the evening with a set of covers handpicked from NPR's newly unveiled 150 Greatest albums by Women list."

As it happened, the evening opened with Ricky Lee Jones performing in full her classic album, Pirates. Jones was followed by a great lineup of female talent which included Lizzo, Gaby Moreno, Alynda Segarra, TORRES, Nona Hendryx, and the great Ronnie Spector. To make an amazing night of music even better, the audience was treated to a surprise appearance by Roberta Flack, one of America's greatest contemporary singers.


The inimitable Dionne Warwick commands the stage.
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Due to other commitments (see previous posts), I missed the Thursday and Friday night events, but was back on Saturday night for An Evening With Rumer. The British born Rumer, as she is known professionally, has a repertoire of songs in the same vein as Dusty Springfield and Karen Carpenter, and apart from performing her own material, Rumer is a fine interpreter of the songs of Burt Bacharach and Hal David.

The highlight of the night for me, and for the assembled mass of people waiting to see and hear her, was the special guest set of songs by another of America's great performers -- and surely the best interpreter of Bacharach and Hall David -- Dionne Warwick. At 76, it has to be said that Dionne Warwick's voice does not command the full power it once had, but that made no difference to the many hundreds of fans hanging on her every note, happy just to be in her glorious presence.

Dionne Warwick on stage.
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Which brings me to today, Sunday. This year Lincoln Center Out Of Doors was hosting the Double Dutch Summer Classic National Competition. On a hot, but thankfully almost humidity free day, dozens of children and adolescents ranging in age from 10 to 17 or 18 years, hammered the boards at the Josie Robertson Plaza with so much energy, enthusiasm and athleticism that I am positive it left them all completely drained and exhausted by the end of the afternoon.

Forget the endless 'Boot Camp' variations. If you want to push your body through a full aerobic series of exercises, I would argue that Double Dutch beats boot camp hands down. The one-minute routines the competitors put their bodies through provided the best example of High Intensity Training I have yet seen.

A typical routine included jump rope, squats, high kicks, back flips, push-ups, leg splits, and so many other complex maneuvers that I can only apologize for my lack of knowledge and vocabulary that fails to give the young competitors the full credit they deserve.

Video footage from one of the teams competing at the Double Dutch championship.
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Week Two of Lincoln Center Out Of Doors continues next Wednesday, August 2, 2017, with performances by Ibibio Sound Machine (in their U.S.debut) and Angelique Kidjo. Ibibio Sound Machine are described in the program as "an eight-piece band led by English-Nigerian singer Eno Williams." The band plays a "...mix of Afrobeat, club music, and funk." Angelique Kidjo, a Grammy Award-winning singer-songwriter, who was born in the African nation, Benin, reimagines Talking Heads' groundbreaking album Remain In Light. As a huge fan of Talking Heads and of that album in particular, I will definitely be there Wednesday night. Maybe I'll see you there!

Any questions, comments or suggestions? How about complaints or compliments? Let me know via the comments box below.
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WEEK SIX EXPENSES*
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ONGOING WEEKLY EXPENSES
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Museum Memberships $19.15 ($25.15)
AT&T SIM card $16.25 ($25.38)
MTA Pass $30.25 ($39.92)
Accommodation $152.00 ($200.00)
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Total Ongoing: US$217.65 (AU$290.45)
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ADDITIONAL DAILY EXPENSES
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Sunday 23, July | Expenses $31.00 ($39.10)
Monday 24, July | Expenses $79.46 ($100.25)
Tuesday 25, July | Expenses $61.35 ($77.55)
Wednesday 26, July | Expenses $22.10 ($27.45)
Thursday 27, July | Expenses $27.25 ($46.30)
Friday 28, July | Expenses $62.80 ($78.55)
Saturday 29, July | Expenses $26.80 ($33.55)
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Total Daily: US$310.75 | AU$402.75
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Total Expenses Week 6: US$528.40 (AU$693.20)
*Figures in brackets are Australian dollar amounts

Sunday, July 30, 2017

NYC Day 43: In Which Seaport and Singers Mix Together Harmoniously

Click on images to view full sized.
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I went to the South Street Seaport Museum intent on taking advantage of their Free Friday offer (from 3:00pm to 7:00pm), although I did give them a donation at the end of my visit.
South Street Seaport Museum's collections consist of over 26,500 objects documenting the rise of New York as a port city, and its role in the development of the economy and business of the United States through the social and architectural landscapes. The collection includes paintings; drawings, prints and photographs; manuscripts and ephemera; ship models; scrimshaw; navigational instruments and shipwright tools; and many historical objects related to trade from the Seaport itself, including those from the Fulton Fish Market, the coffee and tea industry, and letterpress printing and advertising industry, which supported the growth of New York as a financial powerhouse.{Source: Museum website}

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I started by going aboard the clipper ship, Wavertree. This is a magnificent ship by any standard you care to nominate. I was surprised by just how big the deck area was. It looked wide and vast, and for a ship that is more than a hundred years old, it is in wonderful condition. Mind you, the Wavertree has recently undergone a multimillion dollar overhaul, and it shows. The rigging is new, the decks are clean and well maintained, and everything looks ship shape and ready for sea.


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I was disappointed that visitors could not go below decks and look around, although that may change one day. Mind you, there may not be anything to see below decks apart from empty holds and storage areas. While you can't go deep below decks, you can enter the cabin area for the ship's captain. There is not a lot to see apart from small, empty cabin areas, which leave visitors to wonder; if the captain of the ship is confined to spaces as narrow and as confined as these, what sort of cramped accommodations did the crew have to contend with below decks?

I have no idea whether the museum intends to fit out the captain's cabin with rebuilt sleeping quarters and other fittings that give a better picture of life on board these types of ships, but I hope they do, if only because the already small rooms will become even more cramped and claustrophobic when fully restored.

Above: The Captain's quarters. 
Below: The ship's galley, or kitchen.
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From the Wavertree I spent some time examining several small exhibitions at the museum's main building. There is extensive information here about the refitting of the Wavertree, and an exhibition called Millions: Migrants and Millionaires Aboard The Great Liners, 1900-1914. This exhibition examines the contrasting conditions on board these mighty ships of the sea for two very different groups of travellers.

Either I missed the entrance to other parts of the museum, or the museum has reduced the size of its exhibition and display areas considerably, because there was a lot more of that 26,000 plus collection to see and discover at the South Street Seaport Museum when I visited the building back in 2010. I suspect the museum is still recovering from the damage caused by Superstorm Sandy in October 2012, when a storm surge of water that rose more than seven feet devastated low-lying areas of New York City including the seaport district.

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Apart from the Wavertree and the main building, the museum also has an extensive program of educational events including walking tours, dockside programs, sailing excursions on the Pioneer, an 1885 built sailing vessel, and the Lettie G. Howard, an 1893 built schooner, and other events.


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If You Go
South Street Seaport Museum
12 Fulton Street, New York City
Hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 11:00am to 7:00pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Tix: Adults $12.00; Seniors & Students $8.00; Child (2-17) $6.00.

Above: The fully rigged Wavertree under sail, by the Australian artist Oswald Brett.
Below: One of several historical images showing damage to the Wavertree after it was dismasted while rounding Cape Horn in 1910.
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Free Music Fridays at The American Folk Art Museum
From the South Street Seaport Museum I went and had a late late lunch, or early early dinner - take your pick, after all it was 4:00pm - and then decided to head back to the American Folk Art Museum near Columbus Circle, where the museum's Free Music Friday was due to begin at 5:30pm. Performing this night were Kalyani Singh, Richard McGraw, and Rachelle Garniez.

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I got there a little late to find Kalyani Singh, a young 21 year old of South Asian heritage already performing. I was immediately captivated by her very distinctive voice and songs. The melodic structure of some of the songs reflected her Asian heritage, while her high soprano voice was clear and bright and reminded me of a young Joan Baez. I was also very pleased that her songs were not the types of works that are often full of youthful angst, and maudlin lyrics about failed love affairs. A topic that plagues far too many songs by young performers.

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Kalyani was followed by Richard McGraw whose catchy songs, quirky lyrics and unusual melodies soon has the audience trying to work out whether he was in fact working out his angst onstage and writing and performing songs as personal therapy. After all, one of his albums bears the title, How To Suffer. Or maybe he was just having us all on, because his songs were anything but maudlin. Richard was not afraid to teach the audience several refrains during his set and have us join in at the appropriate time, and he too, soon won the audience over with his easy stage manner by the time his 35 minute set was over.

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The final act for the evening was Rachelle Garniez. When she began singing I realized that I had seen her performing somewhere before, but it was only when she mentioned that she had been performing at the Bryant Park accordion festival just last week that I remembered. I had missed that performance, but I had seen her playing at the same festival during my visit to New York last year. If Richard McGraw's lyrics were quirky, then Rachelle's were wonderfully idiosyncratic. Accompanying herself on accordion, guitar, and keyboard (not all at the same time!), Garniez has a voice that darts high, low, and all the stages in between. Her songs constantly surprise, both lyrically and melodically, and are full of wry observations and sly digs at real or imaginary ex lovers.

The American Folk Art Museum says about these free sessions: Music featured at the Free Music Fridays series thematically reflects the spirit of the self-taught art on view at the museum. I have been meaning to catch these free Friday music nights for several weeks, but always seem to be elsewhere. However, now that I have seen the quality of the performers, I am determined to attend several more before my visit is over.

Although I stopped buying CDs on a regular basis some years ago, I just had to purchase one CD each from both Richard McGraw (How To Suffer), and Rachelle Garniez (Sad Dead Alive Happy). Kalyani Singh has yet to release an album, although she has recorded three songs which are available via her Bandcamp page (see link below).

If You Go
American Folk Art Museum
Address: 2 Lincoln Square, New York City.
Hours: Tues-Thurs & Sat., 11:30am-7:00pm; Friday 12:00-7:30pm; Sunday 12:00-6:00pm. Closed Monday. Free Music Friday: 5:30pm—7:30pm.
It's worth reminding readers that admission to the Folk Art Museum is always free.

More Information 
Kalyani Singh... 
Richard McGraw... 
Rachelle Garniez... 

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Friday 28, July | Expenses $62.80 ($78.55)
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NYC Day 42: In Which I Travel Back to New York in The 1970s

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The Film Forum (at 209 West Houston Street, New York), is one of the city's great independent movie theaters. It began in 1970 as an alternative screening space for independent films and it has stayed true to that mission ever since. During July, the Film Forum programmed a wonderful series of films around the theme New York in the 1970s, and screened more than 40 now classic movies from that era. These included the obvious choices such as Martin Scorsese's Mean Streets and Taxi Driver, along with great films like Midnight Cowboy, The Taking of Pelham 123, Manhattan, and many others. I had every intention of seeing a dozen or more of these films but in the end only got to one of the final double-bills on the program: Escape From New York, and The Warriors.


Deborah Van Valkenburg (Mercy), and Michael Beck (Swan), in The Warriors. 
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John Carpenter's Escape From New York (1981), was a starring vehicle for Kurt Russell, and also featured Lee Van Cleef, Ernest Borgnine, Isaac Hayes, and Donald Pleasence. I have seen the film numerous times on DVD, but it has been more years than I can remember since I saw it on a big screen. The Warriors on the other hand is a film I had never seen. It was directed by Walter Hill in 1979, and was a lot of fun if only because the film has not aged well.

Like that other great classic, Easy Rider, the film is let down by its very dated jargon and language that may have seemed hip and 'with it' in 1979, but just seems silly in 2017. Also the young, mostly male actors, emote like they are fresh out of acting school. It has to be said that the few female actors in the film did better in that regard than their male counterparts. Speaking of which, I was delighted to see one of my favorite female actors, Mercedes Ruehl in only her second film. Later in her career Mercedes won an Oscar for Best Actress In A Supporting Role, for her part in Terry Gilliam's 1991 movie, The Fisher King.


Kurt Russell as Snake Plisskin in Escape From New York
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As for Escape From New York, this is a film that has aged much better. But first a brief synopsis: The year is 1991, and crime in America has become so rife that the island of Manhattan has been turned into a maximum security prison. Which has been completely walled off from the rest of the country. Air Force One, carrying the president (Donald Pleasence), has somehow been hijacked and is brought down on the island, but before the plane crashes, the president escapes in a special pod that lands inside the walls of the island prison. Kurt Russell (as Snake Plisskin) is sent in to rescue the president.

As Escape From New York began, I couldn't help but wonder what effect and emotions the early scenes might be evoking on an audience of mostly local New Yorkers. In these scenes, what passed as state-of-the-art computer graphics in 1981, depict Air Force One crashing into a high-rise building. Later, as he sets off to find the president, Kurt Russell has to land a glider on top of one of the twin towers, and the scene can't help but evoke memories of September 11, 2001, in spite of the primitive special effects used.

From the Film Forum I considered heading back to Columbus Circle and the Lincoln Center where the second evening of the current Lincoln Center Out Of Doors program was  getting underway. In the end I decided to walk over towards the Hudson River, and take in the views.

Above and below: Volleyball and playing fields at Pier 26.
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This structure, and three others like it, help extract exhaust fumes from the Lincoln Tunnel as it passes below the Hudson River linking Manhattan with New Jersey.
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Above & below: 'Grand Banks' floating restaurant and party boat.
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Late evening Lower Manhattan skyline. 
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Ex US Coast Guard vessel 227.
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Thursday 27, July | Expenses $27.25 ($46.30)
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Any questions, comments or suggestions? How about complaints or compliments? Let me know via the comments box below.

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