Thursday, July 15, 2010

Brooklyn Hidden Harbor Tour


Image: A view of Manhattan from out in New York Harbor

I’ve had a fascination for ships and the sea for as long as I can remember. It eventually reached its zenith in 1971 when I completed a five year apprenticeship as a shipwright with Adelaide Ship Construction. Unfortunately, as a career choice it was a case of too little too late. Towards the end of the 1960s and throughout the 1970s, Japan became the premier constructor of world shipping, and one by one the few shipyards around Australia began shutting down (and my budding career shut down with them).

However, to this day my interest in ships, boating, and a life on the ocean waves has never completely gone away, hence my nine hour outing up the Hudson River to Bear Mountain, and my participation on the Brooklyn Hidden Harbor tour organized by the New York based Working Harbor Committee.

Billed as a tour examining “Brooklyn’s Maritime Past, Present & Future”, this very popular two hour cruise took us under the Brooklyn, Manhattan and Williamsburg bridges as far as Newtown Creek before returning back down the East River for an absorbing journey among Brooklyn’s many hidden inlets, disused wharves, bays and shipping terminals.

Ongoing commentary was provided by Captain John Doswell (Working Harbor Committee), Venetia Lannon (Sr, Vice President, Maritime, of the New York City Economic Development Corporation), and several other people who had an extensive working knowledge of the waterways surrounding Manhattan.

Venetia Lannon in particular, spoke often about the competing interests fighting over the development of vast swathes of Brooklyn waterfront, on what is clearly prime real estate. As you can imagine, developers are keen to get a slice of the action – and the waterfront – and would love to fill the area with expensive high rise apartments, office blocks, and projects that take full advantage of the stunning views across the East River towards Manhattan.

Image: The tall ship Peking at the South Street Seaport Museum


Our journey began at Pier 16 at the South Street Seaport Museum. This historic district was once a major shipping centre for sailing vessels to and from Europe and other parts of the world, and is well worth a visit in its own right. The museum owns a fleet of historic vessels including the tall ships Peking and Wavertree, the lightship Ambrose, as well as tug boats, schooners and exhibits in Schermerhorn Row and other buildings.

After boarding the Zephyr, we headed out into New York harbour passing under the iconic Brooklyn Bridge. We were informed that beginning sometime in September, the Brooklyn Bridge will be undergoing major restoration work that is scheduled to take up to a year to complete! Pity then, the millions of tourists and visitors who will travel to see and photograph the bridge, only to find it obscured by scaffolding and canvas.


Passing under the Manhattan Bridge we cruised past Wallabout Bay were the Brooklyn Navy Yard is located. It was here at the Navy Yard that the nation's first ironclad ship, Monitor, was built and fitted with its revolutionary iron cladding at the Continental Iron Works in nearby Greenpoint, and in 1890, the ill-fated Maine was launched from the Yard's slipways.

Image: The start of something big – high rise apartments on the Brooklyn waterfront


In short order, here are just some of the tour highlights: Brooklyn Port Authority Piers (soon to become part of the new Brooklyn Bridge Park); the Fulton Ferry Landing, where Robert Fulton began the first ferry service in 1642; American Stevedoring (Brooklyn's only container port); Atlantic Basin (along with Howland Hook in Staten Island), one of only two cargo-handling docks left in the New York City; PortSide NewYork (a waterfront hub in Atlantic Basin with visiting historic vessels, charter and excursion boats, and a rest area for workboats); Erie Basin, so named as it was the southern terminus of the barge trade traffic that extended up the Hudson River through the Erie canal and west to the Great Lakes.


I think it was Venetia Lannon who pointed out that it was still possible to take a small craft up the Hudson River and along the Erie Canal to the Great Lakes, and from there enter the Mississippi River near Chicago, travel down the Mississippi exiting in Louisiana, before finally travelling up the east coast back to New York City. I’m not sure if anyone has attempted this trip but it would make a fascinating journey – and documentary.

On we cruised to Gowanus Bay, passing more prime real estate with great views of lower Manhattan and Governor’s Island. Out we went into the New York harbor anchorage and main channel where ships from all over the world as well as local barges can be seen anchored. This is the main shipping channel that begins in the Atlantic, passes under the Verrazano Bridge and continues north up the Hudson River as well as Brooklyn on the east and Staten Island on the west.


Image: Ships and barges at anchorage in New York harbor’s main shipping channel

We passed Robbins Reef Lighthouse, whose most famous Keeper was widow Kate Walker. From 1886 to 1919, she kept the light burning and raised two children, rowing them to school on Staten Island every day. Finally, we paused briefly just off the Statue of Liberty before return once again to Pier 16 and the South Street Seaport Museum, thus completing a fantastic look at parts of the Brooklyn waterfront rarely examined up close by visitors or locals.


I’ve already booked for the Working Harbor of New York and New Jersey tour, featuring the giant container ports in Newark Bay. This tour takes place on 17 August at 6:15 pm.

A repeat of the Brooklyn’s Maritime Past, Present & Future tour is scheduled for 14 September at 6:00 pm. Tickets for both tours are on sale now, as are tickets for other tours organized by the Working Harbor Committee.


A couple of notes about these boat tours:

  • The tour vessel is the Zephyr, a large, luxurious excursion vessel
  • The Zephyr is wheelchair accessible on the first deck, including heads (bathrooms)
  • Tour price ($29.00, concessions available) includes 1 free domestic beer, wine or soft drink
  • Hot dogs, pretzels, chips and nachos available for purchase
  • Parking lots and metered parking is available at the Seaport
  • Narration is generally by Capt. John Doswell and guests from the maritime industry

Since the Zephyr has at least two decks that are entirely enclosed and safe from the elements, it is my understanding that tours take place, rain, hail or shine!

Image: American Stevedoring (Brooklyn's only container port)

LINKS:

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Strolling Central Park

Image: Shakespeare watches over Tango dancers in Central Park

Caught a bus into the city and got off near Hunter College to attend Roller Derby in New York City! Yes, on Saturday night the Brooklyn Bombshells were meeting the Queens of Pain and I wanted to be there to see the clash. Unfortunately, so did hundreds of other roller derby fans, and since I had not bought a ticket for the event I missed out because it was completely sold out.


Gratuitous advice to visitors: If you want to see it – make sure you book it, or don’t be surprised if the event you want to see is sold out. It is New York after all, and the middle of summer at that. At least I will get another chance to see the teams clash again in August, and you can make sure I will book ahead for that one.


So what to do? Wanting to salvage something from a potentially wasted Saturday night, I headed off to Central Park where I was sure something would be happening, and it wasn’t long before I encountered a large group of people dancing in the park. Not just any old dance, though. They were dancing the Tango. I didn’t get the full details, but throughout the summer, free Tango lessons were taking place on Saturday evenings around the base of Shakespeare’s statue, and I had stumbled on the class. Of course, if you already knew how to Tango you were more than welcome to join in.

Image: Bethesda Fountain in Central Park


After watching the dancers for a little while I walked down towards Bethesda Fountain. Before reaching the fountain I saw another group of dancers. These were gyrating around a trio of percussionists who pounded out a steady rhythm of primal beats that kept the mood lively and the dancers sweaty.


At Bethesda Fountain, numerous visitors and locals where being entertained by a couple of buskers who were creating giant soap bubbles, and eliciting excited ooh’s and ah’s from an appreciative audience, especially when some of the bubbles where reaching lengths of two or three metres.


Image: Giant soap bubbles in Central Park


Later, as I retraced my steps back past the dancers to Fifth Avenue and caught a bus into Penn Station for a meal, I was happy to have made something out of a potentially wasted evening.


Thursday, July 8, 2010

Livingstone's New York Postcard #1

Intergalactic time traveler, Livingstone Cook is living the high life in New York City, and has taken time out from partying to send some happy snaps back to Shummy-Shum (as he affectionately refers to his mother).

Livingstone is already well travelled, having come from beyond the Pavo constellation. Unfortunately, he did get caught up in some recent sun spot activity which has caused major malfunctions to his internal guidance systems.


The other side effect of this incident is that it has left him with a body mass that has become extremely soft and pliable, giving him the appearance of a soft toy made from heavy ply wool with black beads for eyes. However, this transformation from an inter-galactic, state of the art, robotic alien has its benefits since it means he is now incredibly light and can fit into almost any space, which makes it east to tote him around with me wherever I go.


Written by Livingstone himself, here in his own words is a report of his first exciting taste of international travel.


Hello, mommy Shummy_Shum. It too hot in Noo York City, especial if you come from ice-berg planet like me do. Me be getting out and over with Uncle JimJim – when he can bother to take me with he.


Image: Livingstone waiting at Adelaide Airport for flight to Los Angeles


Me waiting in pack back for intergalactic to Los Anglees. Uncle JimJim make big ha_ha. He say intergalactic take 20 hours or more! BigJoke Uncle JimJim. In 20 hours Me fly to Moon Station 0030. You no fool Me, SillyBilly.


Image: Livingstone claiming the double bed in the Super 8 Hotel, Los Angeles for himself


Uncle JimJim no make BigJoke! Travel on sky plane take 20 hours and more! Earth people dummy_dums. Why they have no teleport stations? Travel well faster than sky plane with teleport stations. Now he say big bed for he only. Me say big bed for Me too. Me want no more sleep_asleep in pack back!

Uncle JimJim say Me a big woosh. He say Me be a SillyBilly. Me no big woosh! Uncle JimJim be a big woosh becos he be jet blagged. He should be travelled 13 light years - then he be jet blagged for real!

Image: The Bob Hope Hollywood USO at LAX. No, Livingstone, you can’t catch it home!

Me see intergalactic USO Sky Ship Bob Hope, waiting to launch at Los Anglees, LAX. Me want to catch sky ship home. Uncle JimJim say Bob Hope is no sky ship but people house. He say we stay in Los Anglees. He still grumpy_grump from jet blagging. Big woosh!

Image: Livingstone have a quiet word with Steven Spielberg on Hollywood Boulevard

Me be meet with Steven Speelberg! He be Me big and bigger hero. In Pavo Constellation Mr. Speelberg top earth director for all space comedies. Always. Me favorite comedy be E.T. and Close Encounter. Me laugh fit to get busted! Good jokes, Mr. Speelberg.


Pleese, scuse Me poor inglish. Livingstone inglish is get better but not best yet.


Luv U, Shummy_Shum. By-bye.

Livingstone


Yes, I know. Riveting stuff, isn’t it? Still I promised Livingstone that he can contribute one blog post each week detailing his adventures and unique insights (yes, that’s a joke). With a bit of luck it may at least stop him from nagging me constantly about ‘going home’. It seems to be working. Right now he is working on his next entry which includes New York City.

I bet you can’t wait.


Yeah, right!

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Up A Lazy River to Bear Mountain

Image: Bear Mountain State Park, New York, NY


In 1962 or thereabouts, a very young Bob Dylan wrote a song called, Talkin' Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre Blues. The song begins:

I saw it advertised one day

Bear Mountain picnic was comin’ my way

“Come along ’n’ take a trip

We’ll bring you up there on a ship

Bring the wife and kids

Bring the whole family”

Yippee!*


Through another eight verses Dylan describes a picnic cruise that goes from bad, to worse, to disastrous.


I’m pleased to say the cruise I took to Bear Mountain with the Classic Harbor Line on their beautifully appointed teak-decked yacht, Manhattan was anything but a disaster. This nine hour, full day, round-trip cruise up the Hudson River to Bear Mountain began at 9.00am with an open breakfast buffet, a complimentary drink from the bar, and a three hour cruise that wound its way north through the Palisades and the lower Hudson River Valley.

The open breakfast buffet included fresh bagels and pastries, fruit, a waffle maker, fresh quiche and sausage, and coffee, juice and tea. Quite frankly, it was more than enough food for the passengers on board, and there was no need to ‘top up’ with other food purchases at the concession stands or café within the park when we got there. In fact, we were encouraged to take breakfast ‘leftovers’ like fruit and pastries ashore with us.


Image: Mucking around in boats on the Hudson River


It was a perfect day for mucking around in boats, and I had to feel sorry for the folks back in New York City who were about to experience a sweltering day in among the concrete and glass canyons of Manhattan. Meanwhile the lucky 30 or so passengers on the cruise were blessed with a cool breeze and smooth running, all the way to our destination.

After docking at Bear Mountain, we were free to enjoy around two and a half hours exploring, hiking, or just relaxing. I never bothered with the Trailside Museums, the jam-packed swimming pool, rowing boat hire, or the small on-site Zoo, but I did amble my way around Hessian Lake and breathe in the fresh mountain air – laced with the smell of BBQ wafting across the lake from the dozens of family picnics taking place in the park.

Image: I love the smell of BBQ in the morning!


Our cruise coincided with the post-Independence Day public holiday, and it is clear that Bear Mountain has been a favourite picnic spot for New Yorkers, even long before Dylan wrote about it. Omar, a Honduran (see Special Thanks below) told me that apparently, on July 4th itself, the picnic site was full by 9.00am, and park staff had to turn every other visitor away – which gives you an idea of just how popular the location is.

At 3:00pm the Manhattan departed for the three hour cruise back to New York City. Again, we were treated to a complimentary beverage from the bar and barbecue picnic buffet! As if that wasn’t enough, an hour or so before disembarking we were also offered dessert and fruit platters just to make sure we didn’t leave hungry.

Image: The Manhattan at anchor near Chelsea Piers

The Manhattan is a newly built (2006) 1920’s style “commuter” yacht, which aims to reproduce the Gilded Era of Yachting (the company description, not mine). The boat features an enclosed, cushioned observatory surrounded by large windows and skylights which makes it very easy to take in the stunning views on both sides of the river. Of course, passengers could also sit on deck if they chose to.

Caveats
1. The company website and brochures advertise a three hour break at Bear Mountain. However, if it takes longer to reach the park, that delay is subtracted from the nominal three hours to ensure the Manhattan still leaves at 3.00pm for the return cruise to New York City. A practical example: Although our trip left on time at 9.00am, it was 15-20 minutes late reaching Bear Mountain due to prevailing weather conditions. Therefore, our time at Bear Mountain was reduced to around two and a half hours.

2. Even assuming a full three hours at Bear Mountain, we were advised that passengers inclined to walk to the top of the mountain would not be able to complete the round trip within that time. Therefore, if you are a keen hiker, and want to climb Bear Mountain, you will need to find your own way there, or travel with another company that allows more time to complete the climb.

3. Boat cruising isn’t for everyone. If you bore easily, sitting on a boat for six hours – no matter how luxurious the vessel – can seem interminably long. From time to time on our cruise, some folks read books and newspapers, dozed off, or distracted themselves from the cruise in different ways.

Others, myself included, were interested in watching the changing landscape and looking out for the unexpected – like birds of prey soaring high over cliffs and escarpments; or trying to work out which of the numerous fortress-like buildings we passed was the notorious Sing Sing, maximum security prison. That sort of thing.


Image: High cliffs and escarpments; a small section of the Palisades

The Palisades, also called the New Jersey Palisades or the Hudson Palisades are a line of steep cliffs along the west side of the lower Hudson River in northeastern New Jersey and southern New York ... The cliffs stretch north from Jersey City (where their emergence is called Bergen Hill) approximately 20 mi (32 km) to near Nyack, New York. They rise nearly vertically from near the edge of the river and are among the most dramatic geologic features in the vicinity of New York City... [Source: Wikipedia]


As we cruised past the Palisades, described above, I couldn’t help thinking that it probably hadn’t changed much since Henry Hudson and his crew sailed up the river for the first time 400 years ago. It was sobering to imagine the Native Americans who must have been watching from the safety of the dense undergrowth or cliff tops, trying to work out who or what these people and their strange vessel represented.


What Is Not Included?

Apart from the complimentary drinks at the start of the cruise and on the return trip, any additional mixed drinks could be purchased from the open bar. Gratuities (tips) are also not included in the overall cruise price, but are greatly appreciated by crew members.


Special Thanks

A special shout-out to Omar from Honduras, who was generous enough to offer a complete stranger (me), a soda and something to eat. I accepted the soda, but not the food since we would be eating on the trip back to New York City. Gracias, mi amigo.


And an extra special shout-out to fellow passenger, Marlyn, who also took the time to say ‘hello’ to a complete stranger on the long trip to and from Bear Mountain. It was lovely having someone to share the ride with, and it certainly made the day more memorable for me, and hopefully for her as well.


Finally

The next cruise to Bear Mountain is scheduled for Monday, September 6, 2010, which just happens to be the annual North American Labor Day holiday. I highly recommend the outing for locals and visitors alike – especially if you are interested in doing something different on your vacation. Classic Harbor Lines offers a wide range of cruising via their website so take a look and take the time to get out on the water.


* Copyright © 1962, 1965 by Duchess Music Corporation; renewed 1990, 1993 by MCA


LINKS:

Talkin’ Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre Blues…
Bear Mountain State Park
Classic Harbor Line…

The Palisades

Sunday, July 4, 2010

New York Promenade

Image: The Cloisters commanding the best views, high over the Hudson River

~ Went out in the early evening for a walk up Cabrini Boulevard towards the Cloisters, which is only ten minutes from the apartment I’m staying at. The Cloisters is the branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art dedicated to the art and architecture of the European Middle Ages, and is located in Fort Tryon Park near the northern tip of Manhattan.

By the time I reached the park the building itself was closed, but the park was alive with activity. I quickly realised I was walking into a typical New York summer night. While it may seem like a movie cliché, to me it was everything I expected to see on a hot summer evening. Given that the vast majority of residents on Manhattan live in apartments, very few have access to anything resembling a garden or private yard. This means that in the evenings they spill out onto the streets and into neighbourhood parks (of which there are more than you might expect).


Tryon Park had its fair share of picnicking families, strolling couples and joggers, dog walkers and book readers, and bird watchers and sunbathers. Several paths afforded great views of the Hudson River, which were spoilt only by the fact that you had to squint into the lowering sun to see anything.


A large children’s playground is located at the corner of Riverside Drive and Broadway, and this was packed with families: adults, teenagers, children and grandparents. Streams of water were spraying high into the air in one central play area and young kids squealed with delight as they ran through the mist and showers of cooling water. Ice cream vendors with small three wheeled carts walked around the area plying their wares, and Latin music boomed from passing cars.


I sat for a while enjoying a $1 cup of ice cream, before deciding to walk to the end of Manhattan. Not the bottom end of the island, you understand, but the top – or northern – end, which was less than a mile away.


That iconic thoroughfare, Broadway, runs from the southern end of Manhattan up through its centre and continues on way beyond the end of the island. It is my wish to walk the entire length of the Manhattan section of Broadway, but now that I am here experiencing for myself that much talked about New York summer humidity, I will have to adjust my goals and complete the task in stages rather than one long walk. I have nothing to prove (apart from my stupidity) by walking 22 kilometres in 95 degree heat and 80 percent humidity – and the last time I looked, I wasn’t that stupid!

Image: Evening view of the Bronx over the Harlem River
...


Anyway, since it was close, I set off to walk to the end of Manhattan, and I was happy I did. Along the way I passed Dyckman Farmhouse, a Dutch Colonial style farmhouse built by William Dyckman in 1784 (or thereabouts). The Farmhouse is an extraordinary reminder of earlier Manhattan and an important part of its Inwood neighbourhood. It was of course, also closed, but I will certainly return for a good look before I leave New York.


At the corner of Isham Street and Broadway stands the Church of The Good Shephard. In the garden on the Isham Street is a steel cross similar to the better known 20 foot high (6.1 m) cross salvaged from the rubble of the World Trade Center. Though much small in size, this blackened cross and the memorial garden it watches over is a poignant reminder of that terrible day. Wherever you go in New York City you will find memorials, large and small, to the thousands of victims of that terrible event, which – as you might expect – continues to have a huge impact on the lives of all New Yorkers.


Continuing along Broadway, I soon came to that narrow body of water which separates Manhattan from the Bronx. The Harlem River is spanned by the Broadway Bridge, which may be unique in that if it needs to be raised for small ships or other craft to pass beneath, it rises parallel to the water, as one long platform. Having walked across the bridge to the Bronx – and mainland America – I began my return walk back to the apartment.



Image: Iconic New York street scene, still encountered today
...

Somewhere up a side street in Inwood, I encountered another image I associate with New York: someone had turned on a fire hydrant just enough to send a curtain of water cascading across the road so that local children could play in the shower of ‘rain’ it created.

It would have made a lovely picture. Just the same, it was a great way to end my evening promenade through the top end of Manhattan.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Walking to New Jersey

Image: The George Washington Bridge looking towards Manhattan. For a while it laid claim to be the longest suspension bridge in the world.
...
~ This entry could just as easily have been called: Walking the George Washington Bridge, or Walking Off My Jetlag, but let’s not quibble. What’s in a name, after all?

After heading to bed around 10.30 last night for a much need rest, I woke around 5.00am and could not get back to sleep, so I got up an hour later and wrote my earlier post (see below). I had a late breakfast (brunch) with my host, and then went off to perform a ritual I always undertake when staying in a new area: I explore my surroundings and try and orientate myself to the landscape by picking out obvious landmarks that will help me remember where my accommodations are, as well as where each point of the compass is facing.


Today I wandered aimlessly for an hour or so, but since I wasn’t achieving anything useful, I decided to walk part way across the George Washington Bridge which connects the upper end of Manhattan with New Jersey. The Manhattan end of the George Washington Bridge (or the ‘George’ as it is also informally called), is located in Washington Heights – where I am staying – while the borough of Fort Lee is on the New Jersey side.


It was a glorious morning for walking, and I have to say the view from the bridge was stunning as I set off down the pedestrian walkway running along the left side of the bridge’s upper level. A steady stream of joggers and lycra clad bike riders flashed past me as I ambled out to its mid-point.


The Wikipedia entry for the George Washington, states that as of 2007 the bridge has the greatest capacity of any bridge in the world, carrying approximately 106 million vehicles a year, and quite frankly that doesn’t surprise me. As I walked just a metre or two from roaring mass of steel, a constant flow of every type of truck, bus and automobile was pouring over the bridge into Manhattan, with maybe half that number heading in the other direction towards New Jersey. I wasn’t there to see it, but I’m sure the majority of the traffic flow would have been reversed during the evening rush hour.


Image: The view down the Hudson River, similar to the view that would have been facing Captain Sullenberger as he flew low over the George Washington Bridge.

Standing at the half way point, one almost gets the same exact view that presented itself to United Airlines pilot, Chesley "Sully" Sullenberger III, on January 15, 2009. Sullenberger, you may remember, rose to fame when he successfully ditched US Airways Flight 1549 in the Hudson River off Manhattan. Captain Sullenberger had to fly low over the George Washington Bridge before he safely brought the plane down – in the process saving the lives of all 155 people on the aircraft.


Having reached the halfway mark, walking the full length of the bridge seemed to be the logical thing to do, especially since I could see an observation area high up on the New Jersey side – which turned out to be Fort Lee.


The Bridge is near the sites of Fort Washington (on the New York side) and Fort Lee (in New Jersey), which were fortified positions used by General Washington and his American forces in his unsuccessful attempt to deter the British occupation of New York City in 1776 during the American Revolutionary War. Washington evacuated Manhattan by crossing between the two forts [Source: Wikipedia].


The George Washington Bridge was even more stunning when viewed from the Fort Lee observation area than it was from the Manhattan side. Although I hasten to add, that I haven’t thoroughly explored the Manhattan side at all at this point – but then I’ve been here less than 24 hours!


However, ignoring the constant roar of the traffic, the view down river was spectacular to say the least. I watched as tug boats slowly pushed huge barges upriver. What was their ultimate destination and what, if anything, were the barges carrying? I saw sailing boats, pleasure craft, and numerous Circle Line passenger boats carrying sightseers on a full circumnavigation of the island of Manhattan. I was even fortunate to see a lone deer grazing quietly near the fort car park, and numerous squirrels, and small rodent-like creatures I didn’t recognize.


Image: 14 lanes of traffic ferry transport and people to and from Manhattan/New Jersey.

When it opened in 1931, the bridge had the longest main span in the world; at 1,067 m (3,500 ft), while the total length of the bridge is 1,451 m (4,760 ft). As originally built, the bridge offered six lanes of traffic, but in 1946, two additional lanes were provided on what is now the upper level. A second, lower deck, opened to the public in 1962. This lower level increased the capacity of the bridge by 75 percent, making the George Washington Bridge the world's only 14-lane suspension bridge [Wikipedia],


As you might imagine, with eight lanes on the upper level and six on the lower deck, the accumulated noise spilling off the bridge throughout the day is loud and constant.


Le Corbusier (Charles-Edouard Jeanneret) said of the unadorned steel structure:

"The George Washington Bridge over the Hudson is the most beautiful bridge in the world. Made of cables and steel beams, it gleams in the sky like a reversed arch. It is blessed. It is the only seat of grace in the disordered city..." [Wikipedia]


Well, Chazza, that’s a pretty sweeping statement to make about any bridge, but I have to agree that it is indeed wonderful to stand at the foot of either one of its two massive towers, and marvel at the extraordinary feat of engineering the structure represents. Maybe that is why the George Washington Bridge was designated a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark by the American Society of Civil Engineers in October, 1981, the fiftieth anniversary of the bridge's dedication ceremony.


Maybe it’s a ‘man/guy thing’, but a walk across the George Washington Bridge is well worth the effort. Especially when you are rewarded with sweeping views of Manhattan’s Westside, the vast expanse of the Hudson River as it flows towards the Atlantic Ocean, and the sight of towering skyscrapers reduced to the size of matchsticks far off in the distance, at the lower end of the island.


Unfortunately, I set out on my walk this morning completely unprepared for what might eventuate. This meant I had no water or hat with me, and worse yet, I had left my digital SLR behind, so I had to rely on the camera in my phone to try and capture the experience. Hence, the images illustrating this entry are not exactly award winning, but they will have to do until I explore the area further, and take some better photos.


So there you have it. My first full day in New York, and I can honestly say not only did I walk from New York City to New Jersey – but I also walked from New Jersey to New York. In the same day! Pretty impressive, I reckon.


Thanks to Wikipedia for the background information...

Images: Jim Lesses

Friday, July 2, 2010

Good Morning, New York

~ After an long day travelling from Los Angeles to New York, I made it to the apartment in Washington Heights at a good hour, and with plenty of time to settle in and get to know my host better, as well as the two cats I am here to care for.

Now as I begin writing this at 6.00am, still tired, while my body clock adjusts to the change in time zones and the upset my daily routines have been thrown into, I can hear the quiet hum of the city as it slowly begins to wake up and stretch. I’m trying to tune into its rhythms: the early morning calls of unfamiliar birds; the faraway thump of rotors from a helicopter hovering high over Manhattan; the dull thump of car doors as they are closed; the soft panting of the first jogger as he passes my bedroom window; the swish of cars as they carry the first rush of city workers to their labors; the wave of aircraft flying into and out of the three major airports that service the city; voices in the street; strange cadences and accents; someone coughing; these are just some of the aural stimuli my senses are processing on my first New York morning.


But this is the place. This is where I most want to be on the planet today.


And as I write these words I am reminded of a simple piece of homespun philosophy I read in the American Airlines in-flight magazine yesterday. To paraphrase the homily, since I can’t remember the exact quote: It doesn’t matter what your age is – you will never be this young again. So make the most of it.


Amen, to that, brothers and sisters.


And good morning to you, New York.


I’m awake, and ready.


Image from www.luxurylink.com

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